South Asian Heritage Month

The Grand Trunk Road and My Father

Khalid Mahmood (GT Road)

In honour of South Asian History Month, I find myself drawn to connect the memories of my late father with the legendary Grand Trunk Road, affectionately known as GT Road. This ancient and pivotal route linked the eastern and western regions of the Indian subcontinent, fostering crucial trade and travel connections across its expansive 2,500-kilometer path from Kolkata to Kabul.

My parents both come from Jhelum, a town in north-eastern Pakistan, and our connection to this illustrious road is profound. I remember the immense pride in my father's eyes as he owned a property along its historical path, a place he cherished deeply, refusing to part with it. It symbolised not just a piece of land but the very essence of our heritage, intertwined with the stories of his formative years, surrounded by a close-knit community that remained dear to him throughout his life.

Tosh Warwick (Transporter Bridge, Middlesbrough)

While my time with my father was not as enduring as his connection to the ancient road, I frequently reflect on his history and the remarkable journey that took him from north-eastern Pakistan to Middlesbrough in northeast England. Like many immigrants after World War II, he sought a better life and opportunities, building steel, in an industry that once thrived but eventually succumbed to the decline of the industrial era, leaving a lasting impact on the region that continues to endure to this day.

Amidst the hurdles, the resilience of our community shone brightly, uniting us in strength and support. Cultural adjustment, language barriers, and discrimination were met with a steadfast unity, creating a powerful network that thrived even in adversity. Our shared heritage and experiences bound us together, forming a resilient tapestry that celebrated the richness of our roots.

My father rarely spoke of his hometown, or maybe my memories have forgone such anecdotes. Therefore, Mirpur leaves a captivating mystery surrounding his life as a UK expatriate. I often wonder how much of Mirpur shaped his unique narrative of identity and belonging, where the threads of South Asia and the UK diaspora seamlessly entwined. Mirpur and Jhelum played pivotal roles in the migration, forging new paths and identities while contributing significantly to the UK's cultural diversity.

Yet, amidst this rich heritage, my father underwent a profound transformation upon arriving in a new country. The clichéd response in the western sphere is that Pakistanis don’t want to integrate, yet memories of my father’s struggle remain extremely vivid, he yearned for more, reaching for opportunities beyond his grasp, hindered by factors like poverty, accent, assets, and “different” mannerisms. While he found work at British Steel, his love for art endured. After the mass redundancies, he became an entrepreneur, running a VHS shop offering Bollywood films to the community, despite harbouring a deep-seated animosity towards India, contradicting GT Road’s metaphorical representation. The weight of outside suppression on his dreams left me pondering their profound impact. What becomes of those unfulfilled aspirations, and how do they shape a person's life and sense of self? These lingering questions reflect the challenges faced by many immigrants, striving to find their place while preserving their heritage.

As I immerse myself in personal reflections and intertwine them with the tales of the Grand Trunk Road, a surge of emotions envelops me. Memories of the six months I spent living on this historic route evoke mixed feelings, making me ponder if it could have been a second home or even my true home in an alternative universe. The celebration of Fourteenth of August, with its vibrant display of Green and White flags adorning the road, evoked stark juxtaposition against the rainy skies of my hometown. The euphoria of that celebration as a seven-year-old remains etched in my mind, a cherished moment experienced under the skies of Jhelum.

Dawn Newspaper (Mirpur City)

As an adult, I revisited Mirpur, and its enchanting charm left an indelible mark on my heart. The narrow, winding streets adorned with bustling bazaars, filled with the captivating scents of chai, spices, and sizzling meat, felt like threads of my heritage. Yet, amidst the allure of this homeland, I couldn't help but mourn my parents having to leave behind such richness to embark on a journey filled with countless challenges ahead.

With the passing years, the next generations have emerged, carrying the torch of our cultural heritage. We bravely challenge stereotypes and discrimination, refusing to be confined by old colonial imagery. Instead, we rise and use our voices and experiences to redefine our identities, showcasing the vibrancy of our culture.

Throughout this commemoration, we embrace the profound depth of our histories, traditions, and stories, intricately woven together like the myriad paths converging on the Grand Trunk Road. Despite the differing outlooks of past generations, such as those of my father, if he were here today, I would draw on GT Road as a mesmerising mosaic representing, generations, and continents, encompassing the boundless beauty and strength of our shared South Asian heritage.